![]() Remington 700s and such are not in the category, but mausers are, for a couple examples. Is it a acting like a wedge under recoil? Such actions require a tiny bit of relief at the back end to prevent that. I have used many others without issue.Īnother subject is the action tang. I have preferred Industrial Formulators G-1 and G-2 epoxies. no one makes bad slow-cure epoxy that I am aware of. All the wood that we treat this way is used in marine (wet) environments. I would then seal the entire stock with the penetrating epoxy, followed with either an epoxy, varnish, or clear coat finish. If the crack edges are waxed ahead of time clean-up is very easy.Īny good slow-cure epoxy will work fine. With 2 or 3 applications you can seal the wood and fill the cracks. The cooling wood will draw a bunch of epoxy well down into the crack. The use of fishing rod sections is reserved for fore ends that need lightening.Īfter I apply the epoxy to heated wood I cover the crack with a little bit of saran wrap. ![]() I turn my own dowels from very strong wood, usually walnut. The dowel down into the wrist is a very good idea if the crack is big, the wrist weak, or the rifle a real recoiler. This morning I find I left out lots of pertinent stuff. I hit the submit button before I was done, continued typing, and when I hit the submit button a second time I headed to bed. Art uses something different but I can't remember what manufacturer it is. Other epoxy manufacturers have similar products and hardeners, just do a little research before using them and mix them exactly as the instructions detail. I've been using West Systems for all of my epoxy projects for a very long time and have always had good results with it. I use West Systems with 207 hardener, which is their medium set hardener. Wipe up the excess epoxy quickly with alcohol or acetone and stand the stock up to let the remaining epoxy set up in the hole.Īpparently, you will need to use a slow setting epoxy to make this work properly. This should cause the epoxy to run out the top of the hole. Cut a slot in the side of the dowel to allow epoxy to escape and put a small amount more epoxy in the hole and push the dowel into the hole until it is below the surface of the inlet. Measure the depth of the hole with a piece of wire or something skinny and cut off the dowel approximately 1/4" shorter. ![]() Pour the epoxy in the hole and push the rod into the hole, creating a hydraulic ram and slowly push the rod into the hole until you see epoxy squeezing out of the crack on the outside of the stock. Heat the stock at the crack area with a heat gun, and mix up some epoxy. The hole needs to be just slightly larger than the diameter of a wood dowel or other rod you will use later to put in the hole.Ĭut a piece of rod approximately 12" long. A woodworker on another gun forum shared this tip and I will use it if I need to some day-ĭrill a hole in the stock from the action inlet down through the wrist just slightly past the crack. ![]()
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